The pork pie hat is one of the world's most recognisable and quirky pieces of headwear. Distinguished by its flat crown and short, upturned brim, it conjures images of jazz musicians puffing on trumpets, silent film comedians stumbling through slapstick, and modern fashionistas making bold style statements.
Although it started as a women's accessory, the pork pie hat has evolved over the last two centuries to become a versatile unisex staple. This article explores its colourful history, explains its design features, and offers guidance on choosing and styling the perfect pork pie hat.
From Victorian ladies to jazz icons
Originally debuting as a women's fashion item in mid-19th-century Britain, the pork pie hat took its name from the Melton Mowbray pork pie because its flat top and short brim resembled the traditional British pastry. Early versions were constructed from canvas or silk and were sometimes adorned with ribbons and feathers.
In the 1920s, silent film star Buster Keaton famously cut down stiff, wide-brimmed Stetson hats and stiffened the crowns with sugar water to create his signature pork pies, inspiring countless imitators.
During the Great Depression of the 1930s, the hat resurfaced as an affordable alternative to fedoras and bowlers; African-American jazz musicians embraced the style for its flair and practicality.
Lester Young and Charles Mingus wore them on stage, and the 1940s film The Third Man helped popularise the silhouette in Europe. Despite a lull in midcentury decades, the hat experienced revivals in the ska and reggae scenes of the 1960s and 1970s, thanks to artists such as Desmond Dekker.
More recently, television shows and bands have sparked renewed interest in the pork pie hat, cementing its status as a fashionable accessory for both men and women.
Anatomy of a pork pie hat
A classic pork pie hat features a telescope crown – a flat top with a shallow depression encircled by a slight ridge – and a narrow brim that typically measures between 3 and 5 centimetres. The brim is often turned up around or just at the back.
Materials vary: Wool felt and fur felt offer structure and warmth, while straw and paper braid versions provide lightweight options for warmer months. Designers may add grosgrain ribbons, leather bands, feather flourishes, or decorative pins.
Variations include the Boater pork pie, which has a slightly wider brim and shorter crown, and the Spanish Bolero, which some consider a cousin due to its flat top and wider brim. Modern interpretations sometimes incorporate crushable materials, making the hat more practical for travel.
Choosing the right pork pie hat
Selecting a pork pie hat starts with accurate sizing. Measure your head's circumference above the ears and eyebrows. When in doubt, opt for a slightly larger size and use adhesive padding for a snug fit.
The hat's brim should be proportionate to your face: if your jawline is broad, choose a brim that slightly exceeds your jaw's width to maintain balance.
High-quality materials and craftsmanship are crucial: examine the stitching, ensure the brim is evenly curled, and check that the sweatband is comfortable. Wool felt versions often have the best shape retention, while straw versions provide breathability but may be more delicate.
Consider colour choices: classic hues like black, charcoal, and brown work well in formal settings, while brighter shades such as mustard, burgundy, or cobalt blue add a playful touch.
Don't be afraid to experiment with unique trims and bands to express personality.
Styling tips & occasions
The pork pie hat's versatility makes it suitable for various outfits and events. For a vintage, jazzy look, pair a wool pork pie with a double-breasted suit, a pocket square, and polished brogues; this outfit works well for evening concerts or retro-themed parties.
A grey or navy pork pie complements overcoats, blazers, and rollneck sweaters in autumn and winter. During spring and summer, a straw pork pie pairs beautifully with linen trousers, cotton button-downs, and espadrilles or loafers. Women can style pork pies with wide-leg trousers, culottes, or skirts; a belted blazer or trench coat adds sophistication.
The hat also works with casual ensembles such as denim jackets, boots, and graphic tees, adding an effortless artistic vibe. To avoid overpowering your outfit, choose a pork pie hat that blends or gently contrasts with your clothing. Confidence is key: wearing the hat slightly tilted forward or angled to the side can change the mood, while a straight-on look projects classic sophistication.
Where to buy & further reading
VisitNovella to explore a curated range ofpork pie hats in the UK. Novella offers wool felt, fur felt, and straw pork pies in classic and contemporary colours, as well as sizing advice and care recommendations. You can also browse their collections of fedora hats, flat caps, and newsboy caps for complementary styles.
Conclusion
The pork pie hat continues to capture the imagination of hat lovers worldwide. Its unique shape and rich history make it a distinctive accessory that transcends gender and era.
By selecting a well-made hat that suits your face and wardrobe and wearing it confidently, you can harness the spirit of jazz icons and vintage cinema while expressing your contemporary style.